• Running-in

Most owners believe that running-in a new car entails keeping the speed down to a recommended level for the first 500 or 1,000 miles (800–1600 km). During the initial period when the moving parts are bedding in and losing stiffness, this is the least important consideration. Allow the new gearbox to take its time between ratios if it is stiff; forcing it will help. Be gentle with the clutch: the friction disc needs to bed in to the flywheel and pressure plate, and abuse will likely result in a glazed surface wheel, causing slip.

The same is true for the brakes, which should be treated gently at first to allow the linings to bed in. Surprisingly, when tyres are new, they can benefit from a gentle touch. The fabric or steel bracing will be stiff, and excessive cornering may result in overheating.

•  Fuels and oils

When it comes to petrol and oil grades, always stick to the recommendations of the car manufacturer. Using a lower quality of petrol (lower star rating) than recommended can damage the engine, and while using a higher grade will not cause any damage, it will not improve performance.

• Additives 

There are two kinds of additives available: for oil and for gasoline. Petrol additives in the form of upper lubricants, such as Redex, which was popular years ago and was widely used in garages, were administered as “shots.” The purpose of an additive is to reduce corrosion on components such as valve stems and piston rings, as well as to disperse carbon deposits.

If oil additives are used during run-in, they should be avoided because they slow down the bedding-in process, and advice should be given if the gearbox shares the engine’s oil.

• Buying tyres  

Allowing tyres to wear down to the legal minimum of 1 mm tread depth before considering replacement may result in offers at any price in the market. Cross-ply tyres are the best and much less expensive than radial tyres, but they provide less grip and have a higher wear rate. Never use both types on the same axle. Before rushing out to buy a tire, call a few local stockists to double-check the price and availability. To avoid unpleasant vibrations, always have the wheels balanced when new tyres are installed.

• Buying batteries

The cost of batteries varies greatly; it is essentially the same as paying your money and selecting your preferred option.

The best indicator of a battery’s life expectancy is its warranty, which is likely to last between one and three years. The number of plates in each cell is another indicator of quality, as the more plates there are, the greater the battery’s current storage and delivery capacity. Check that the battery is properly charged, charged, and connected. To prevent corrosion, petroleum jelly is smeared on the terminals. Battery prices vary by store, but the high-end accessory store is frequently the cheapest.

•  Buying exhausts

Unless a stainless exhaust system is installed, replacements will be done on a regular basis. If the exhaust system fails while replacing it at home, it is often worthwhile to have it installed at a specialist center; it saves time and a lot of effort.

•  Driving for economy and long vehicle life

These two exercises are inextricably linked. The most obvious way to accomplish these goals is to use as light a right foot as possible. Hard acceleration and high-speed cruising are quick ways to deplete the fuel tank and, to some extent, wear out the vehicle. Sensible gearbox use aids the situation: don’t go to maximum recs in each gear, but be ready to change when the engine begins to labor. Anticipation will improve fuel economy: when you need to slow down or stop, lift off the gas pedal early and let the car decelerate without using heavy braking. This also helped to reduce brake wear. The best way to warm up the engine is to drive it right away. Press it gently but firmly enough to drive normally, and the engine will maintain its operating temperature much faster.